Reparing XBox Consoles

[NeMesiS]

I've had some interesting results when repairing the consoles I have...

POWER SUPPLYS
The first two consoles I got a while back was from a kid that had pulled them apart.
One was a 1.6 and the other 1.2-1.5, neither consoles would power on,
It didn't take long to figure out that the PSU's were in the wrong consoles.

CABLE SELECT
I had another console that had an error code in regards to the HDD,
After opening it up I noticed the jumper wasn't set to "cable select"

HDD ERROR CODES
Another two consoles displayed error codes: 7 no dashboard & 16 dead hdd
As I wanted to TSOP flash these consoles I did the following procedure:
1) Installed modchip
2) Locked a temp drive
3) Removed modchip
4) Flashed TSOP
5) Unlocked temp drive

HEATSINKS
One of the v1.0 consoles I have had a really loud GPU fan, so...
I decided to scrap a dead v1.6 console and use its fanless heatsink

REGION CHANGE
I bought a console yesterday from the sunday market...
I got it home, hooked it up, threw a game in it and to my surprise
it was telling me that my game was out of region. It's an NTSC console!
So I installed a modchip and ran Enigma to change it to PAL.
My game still wouldn't play, I had a better look at the eeprom using config magic
The console was PAL Region 2 and I needed region 4 for Australia
I edited the text using config magics on-the-fly editing and updated eeprom.
I then removed the modchip and was able to TSOP flash using my PAL games

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y54R094lEug[/youtube]

TRACE REPAIR (xbox won't turn off)
This mourning I thought I would have a crack at fixing a console that wouldn't turn off!
Almost by luck I came across this guide (Basically the only guide on the entire web.)
http://diy.sickmods.net/Tutorials/Xbox1 ... t_Pinouts/
My resistors checked out, so I tested the trace and it was definitely broken.
The two traces in question run along the outside of the board where I can see where
the traces have been broken within 3 or 4 different locations.
It kinda looked like that the trace has been rubbing on the case somewhere.
So I soldered a wire from the resistors to a point further up the trace

Underneath Mobo
https://i.imgsafe.org/7679ad3f28.jpg

Wire to Resistors
https://i.imgsafe.org/767a3d0aec.jpg

Wire to Trace
https://i.imgsafe.org/7679f3bde5.jpg


DVD-ROMS
Most of my dvd-roms are either thompson or samsung they tend to have ejecting or
reading issues. I've gotten almost all of my dvd-roms working correctly with just a little TLC
Firstly i disassemble them and take the tray out followed by a good clean...
I use a little rubber grease on the cogs and tray rail. I also replace the drive belt
with O-rings, 27-28mm for thompson and 21-22mm for samsung...
Once I put the tray back in I used a cotton tip and a little window cleaner to clean
the laser lens as carefully as I could, after this they should be good to go...

[sixties keith]

Just had to leave a post to say well done. nice to see someone taking the time to bring so many xbox's back from the dead. Ive a few lying down the back of my garage ive been meaning to look at for ages, some with the problems you mention. Most of mine are usually the bulging or burst capacitors all i need is to find the right ones to replace them with, ive always used old boards to get them before but there all used now

[NeMesiS]

Just had to leave a post to say well done. nice to see someone taking the time to bring so many xbox's back from the dead. Ive a few lying down the back of my garage ive been meaning to look at for ages, some with the problems you mention. Most of mine are usually the bulging or burst capacitors all i need is to find the right ones to replace them with, ive always used old boards to get them before but there all used now

This thread of mine gets into more depth about capacitors...
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=48951

You shouldn't just use your ordinary run of the mill caps,
I would recommend Panasonic FR and/or FJ series caps...

Below are details of caps I found on various versions:


-------------------------------------------
Versions 1.0 to 1.1
-------------------------------------------

Mobo Caps:
13x 25v 22uf NIppon SME (5x11mm)
6x 25v 100uf Nichicon VR (6x11mm)
3x 16v 1500uf Nichicon PW (12x20mm)
2x 10v 3300uf Nichicon PW (12.5x25mm)
1x 10v 680uf Nichicon PW (8x15mm)
5x 6.3v 1500uf Nippon KZE (10x20mm)
1x 1F 2.5v SuperStor (N/A)

SMD Caps:
1x 16v 47uf Nichicon WX (6.3x5.4mm)
6x 16v 10uf Nichicon WX (3x5.4mm)

240v PSU Caps: (Delta DPSN-96AP-1)
1x 50v 10uf LTEC ST (5x11mm)
1x 25v 47uf LTEC LZG (5x11mm)
2x 25v 100uf Nippon KY (6x11mm)
2x 200v 330uf Taicon VZ (18x35mm)
3x 10v 2200uf Nippon KY (10x30mm)
1x 16v 1000uf Nippon KY (10x20mm)
*Fuse 1x 250v 3.15A Bel (8.35x7.7mm)

240v PSU Caps: (FoxLink FTPS-0002 Rev. B)
1x 400v 180uf TEAPO? (25x30mm)
2x 25v 100uf TEAPO? (6x11mm)
1x 1000uf 16v TEAPO? (10x20mm)
*Fuse 1x 250v 2.5A ? (8.35x7.7mm)

Could not identify the following caps:
C23, C19, C17, C21, C15, & unknown C??

RAM:
Samsung
K4D263238M-QC50

-------------------------------------------
Versions 1.2 to 1.5
-------------------------------------------

Mobo Caps:
13x 25v 22uf Nichicon VR (5x11mm)
7x 25v 100uf Nichicon VR (6x11mm)
3x 6.3v 3300uf Nichicon HM (10x25mm)
2x 10v 3300uf Nichicon PW (12.5x25mm)
1x 16v 680uf Nichicon HM (8x15mm)
3x 6.3v 1500uf Nichicon HD (10x20mm)
1x 1F 2.5v SuperStor

SMD Caps:
1x 16v 47uf Nichicon WX (6.3x5.4mm)
5x 16v 10uf Nichicon WX (3x5.4mm)

240v PSU Caps: (Delta DPSN-96BP-1)
1x 400v 150uf Rubycon USR (22x35mm)
3x 50v 0.22uf Taicon VX (4x7mm)
2x 25v 100uf Taicon PW & VX (6x11mm)
1x 25v 47uf Taicon VX (5x11mm)
3x 10v 2200uf Ltec LZG (10x30mm)
1x 16v 1000uf Ltec LZG (10x20mm)
*Fuse 1x 250v 3.15A ? (8.35x7.7mm)

RAM:
Samsung
K4D263238D-QC50 (v1.2-1.3)
K4D263238F-QC50 (v1.4-1.5)

-------------------------------------------
Versions 1.6 to 1.6b
-------------------------------------------

Mobo Caps:
11x 25v 22uf Nichicon VR (5x11mm)
3x 25v 100uf Nichicon VR (6x11mm)
3x 6.3v 1500uf Rubycon ZL (10x20mm)
5x 6.3v 3300uf Rubycon MBZ (10x23mm)
1x 1F 2.5v Nichicon UC (N/A)

SMD Caps:
1x 16v 47uf Nichicon WX (6.3x5.4mm)
3x 16v 10uf Nichicon WX (3x5.4mm)

240v PSU Caps: (Samsung 8794V-0 Rev. 1.0)
3x 50v 1uf CapXon GS (5x11mm)
1x 50v 0.47uf CapXon GS (5x11mm)
1x 50v 10uf CapXon GS (5x11mm)
1x 50v 22uf CapXon GS (5x11mm)
1x 10v 2200uf CapXon KM (10x20mm)
1x 25v 470uf CapXon GL (10x20mm)
1x 10v 3300uf CapXon GL (10x30mm)
2x 200v 330uf CapXon GS (18x35mm)
*Fuse 1x 250v 3.15A ? (8.35x7.7mm)

[sixties keith]

cheers bud, my knowledge on these things is fairly limited and only had other stock boards to go on. didnt even do the best job replacing them but they were from dead mobos so better using something outa them even if its short tern before they go to the tip.

Will have a look around belfast and see if i can pick those up, if so ill have another couple of xbox's running myself, very handy as around my neck of the woods original xboxs are fairly rare now

[PhobosDevourer]

Oh man I had no idea you could swap heatsinks!
Gotta try it soon, thanks a lot mate!

[NeMesiS]

Oh man I had no idea you could swap heatsinks!
Gotta try it soon, thanks a lot mate!

Welcome,

Taking off the plastic clips will be difficult, you'll have to work that out for yourself.
It'll take a bit of force to remove the heatsinks, clean the area as best you can...
You can replace the heatsink with one from any other version xbox console.
Don't forget to use a good thermal paste, the plastic clips only go on one way,
You should be able to see it in the second image below...

Heatsinks Removed
https://i.imgsafe.org/cb4c665d96.jpg

Heatsinks Installed
https://i.imgsafe.org/cb4cbd19e5.jpg


CLOCK CAPACITOR (removal)
I forgot to mention that the clock capacitor on xbox versions 1.0 through to 1.5
has a habit of leaking acid over the board and traces, it is recommended to remove it...
Located on the bottom left of the board underneath dvd rom "powerstor"

POWER CONNECTOR (resolder)
I would also recommend resoldering the power connector on the PSU,
especially if its a foxlink. They tend to crack which may prevent your console
from turning on or worse it could become a fire hazard...

[PhobosDevourer]

idk if I own a foxlink, but Ill look into it, I've already tremoved the cap on the 1.0 wich i the las box I worked on, Ill post pics of the final resul later, thanks a lot !

[NeMesiS]

BIOS
I picked up another 1.6 over the weekend, that apparently wouldn't turn on...
When turning it on it would try and boot the BIOS 3 times where on the third I got flashing leds...
I removed that chip and installed another that i knew worked and I got the same thing occurring.
By now I've realized that a non 1.6 BIOS has been flashed on the modchip...
I installed the modchip to a 1.0-1.5 console where I was able to reflash it with M8_1.6 BIOS
Then i put the modhip back into the 1.6 and all is well...

[NeMesiS]

Actually I have one more thing I cant stress more about
DO NOT wrap the cord around your controller!!!

Almost every control I've picked up over the past couple of months are
destroyed because of people wrapping the cable, I recommend folding!
Otherwise the internal cores will disfigure and break...

[GoTeamScotch]

Actually I have one more thing I cant stress more about
DO NOT wrap the cord around your controller!!!

Almost every control I've picked up over the past couple of months are
destroyed because of people wrapping the cable, I recommend folding!
Otherwise the internal cores will disfigure and break...

+1 for this. I've seen countless controllers become broken from the cord being wrapped too tight and left that way. I always wrap the cord horizontally around the left and right hand grip areas of the controller. I've been doing it this way for years and have never had any problems. It doesn't hurt the cord at all. To unwrap it, you just pick up the controller and gently tilt it left and right and the cord will just unravel on its own.