Just browsed through this whole thread, loving the work done here.
Contributing my work -
Controller ports mounted up front. The flip down door hides the ports while watching movies or using the iR remote.
The green lights in the last pic are from the internal Belkin wireless router that has DD-WRT installed to act as a wireless network bridge, meaning it connects to my network wireless and shares the connection with other devices via ethernet ports.
More info at my blog: http://mynameisjordan.wordpress.com/201 ... he-modbox/
Still a lot of work to do, but wanted to share the progress
@r32Crazy01- very nicely done sir. I'm curious though about the rear fan, I noticed you've got it pushing air into the xbox instead of exhausting it, did you not a big difference in temp changes when you did that? I ask mainly because I used to do that when using a low profile heatsink with a fan on top and the temps were alot cooler that way but the GPU suffered a bit. Either way that's a kickass xbox.
@Scotch- love that case swap man, any plans on paint maybe?
Halo LE Blue (Japan Black jewel) v1.0 1.0GHZ Trusty 128 RAM 640GB Blue-White P/E LED's
White v1.4 X3 CE with X3 CP 500GB Blue-white P/E LED's Blue Jewel
Debug kit untouched
Nextelhalo wrote:@Scotch- love that case swap man, any plans on paint maybe?
None at the moment. I'll more than likely stick with black but just add a new coat to freshen it up. I haven't put a lot of though into it. I still need to figure out how to do the front lettering for the button labels. I'll definitely post pics (with a better camera) once that happens.
@Royalx - Good idea, I did the ones behind the fan, but will do the sides and see what results I get.
@Nextelhalo - Good spotting on the rear fan, I originally had it exhausting the air, but then gave pushing the air in a go and found that it did drop the temp quite a bit as well.
The GPU seems to be in a similar temp range to the CPU of around 38C - 45C. Perhaps the GPU is a bit cooler for me as I have cut the HDD tray to just have two rails and that leaves empty space behind the HDD, also a tad more under it.
Spotted this on Ebay, crazy good workmanship and a very unique idea for the front P/E button, notice the green lights. Priced at $300 USD, alittle high I would say but i'm sure someone will buy it.
Attachments
Halo LE Blue (Japan Black jewel) v1.0 1.0GHZ Trusty 128 RAM 640GB Blue-White P/E LED's
White v1.4 X3 CE with X3 CP 500GB Blue-white P/E LED's Blue Jewel
Debug kit untouched
Same here, no sweet mods just a paint job for a customer. The post I put up a couple of weeks ago made me want to do the bronze/brown color scheme again.
Attachments
Last edited by Nextelhalo on Sat Feb 24, 2018 7:00 am, edited 1 time in total.
Halo LE Blue (Japan Black jewel) v1.0 1.0GHZ Trusty 128 RAM 640GB Blue-White P/E LED's
White v1.4 X3 CE with X3 CP 500GB Blue-white P/E LED's Blue Jewel
Debug kit untouched
Nex, do you have any trouble with green paint leaching into the silver on the jewel ? the last 2 i have done have had small traces of green that i cant remove.
Sure did, i'm not sure why it didnt show up in that pic but it's still there. I think some alcohol and a qtip would probably get it without disturbing the silver.
Halo LE Blue (Japan Black jewel) v1.0 1.0GHZ Trusty 128 RAM 640GB Blue-White P/E LED's
White v1.4 X3 CE with X3 CP 500GB Blue-white P/E LED's Blue Jewel
Debug kit untouched
It seems the "waxing out" the recess in the jewel isn't working boys?. How about trying oil, any oil in the xbox letters recess. I'd try something light like cooking oil and apply it with a tooth pick a drop at a time. We all know paint won't stick or ever set on oil aye. Might be worth a try. Just don't get it anywhere you actually want the paint to stick and "don't" spray it out with the pressure in the pressure pack can of paint. Oww and cooking oil won't damage the paint that is dry already.
xman wrote:It seems the "waxing out" the recess in the jewel isn't working boys?. How about trying oil, any oil in the xbox letters recess. I'd try something light like cooking oil and apply it with a tooth pick a drop at a time. We all know paint won't stick or ever set on oil aye. Might be worth a try. Just don't get it anywhere you actually want the paint to stick and "don't" spray it out with the pressure in the pressure pack can of paint. Oww and cooking oil won't damage the paint that is dry already.
Its not the paint we are adding but the original green paint that has got into the edges of the silver in the letters, i tried picking it out with a sharp tool but that wasnt much help.
Well you could use brake fluid to melt all the paint and start from a clean slate. Tooth picks seem to clean it out fine and then you can use what colour you want. If you spray the jewel colour on paper and then press the jewel on it you will get nothing in the letter area at all and then do clear letters and throw a rapid changing RGB LED so the letters change colour every 1/2 second, now that would look good and unique I think, I've never seen it before.
Halo LE Blue (Japan Black jewel) v1.0 1.0GHZ Trusty 128 RAM 640GB Blue-White P/E LED's
White v1.4 X3 CE with X3 CP 500GB Blue-white P/E LED's Blue Jewel
Debug kit untouched
GoTeamScotch wrote:Just browsed through this whole thread, loving the work done here.
Contributing my work -
Thanks for posting your pics I've kinda always wanted to do an xbox in a similar case and have just begun work taking apart one of those white sky boxes for my donor case.
Kinda obvious plans are to use the buttons on the front of the box to control it so it can be used without a game pad or remote.
Just struggling with the tamper proof screws on the mobo atm
Bit of a bonus though, it said it was an 80GB model but had 160GB inside and the seal was in tact until i opened it
blighty wrote:Just struggling with the tamper proof screws on the mobo atm
are they security torx?
like this:
If so you can undo them with a small flat head screw driver Just find one that'll jam in there slightly off centre and you're away
yeah, torx with a pin in the middle, ones i had were more dome head style, I just took a hacksaw to each head and cut a slot that my good old flathead screwdriver could work with (except were they were buried next to components i had to use grips and bully them out)
I keep meaning to put my torx set into my lathe and drill out the security hole myself. I have so many busted wireless 360 pads that need repairing too XD
Just for the sack of clarity, the bolts with the pin in the center are called "anti tamper torx"
The bolts without the pin are called "torx"
and a normal hex headed is an "allen"
The pin idea come about in an attempt to stop people using just an allen key on torx heads. I have in the past hit the pin in the center sideways with a pin punch once or twice to snap the pin out clean when I haven't had the anti tamper head to suit the bolt but don't do this if the screws are still holding the mother board, you do need to hit the pin quite hard.
Might be worth a try. Just don't get it anywhere you actually want the paint to stick and "don't" spray it out with the pressure in the pressure pack can of paint. Oww and cooking oil won't damage the paint that is dry already.
I keep thinking I should buy a security torx bit set but never get around to it 