XBMC4Xbox

Anyone used the xbox jamma timers available on ebay , looking to use one with vga output so i can hook up arcade controllers without hacking pads.

I have Dreamcast ones that work fine on arcades. I think there about $30 ex Hong Kong for Xbox ones. If you want to mod a Dreamcast one BKO I'll send you one to try. For what you want as an arcade panel interface I think you'll get it working fine.

xman wrote:I have Dreamcast ones that work fine on arcades. I think there about $30 ex Hong Kong for Xbox ones. If you want to mod a Dreamcast one BKO I'll send you one to try. For what you want as an arcade panel interface I think you'll get it working fine.

Not sure how the dreamcast ones hook up but the xbox one i 'm looking at has VGA output so i can use it to connect an LCD monitor to an xbox and then arcade joystick/buttons.
This is to add to the xbox display unit so that Coinops will be just like using an arcade cabinet, i'm looking for a simple way to hook it - these are about $40 ex HK .

Yer, that will plug and play. The Dreamcast ones require the plugs to be changed obviously. Just make sure you get good instructions with it BKO. You do need to adjust the Dipswitches to get it to do exactly what you want and you don't want to do this through trial and error.

hey dude i have bought and used 2 of them. Both worked ok, i bought one and modded it to be true Jamma Compliant, since it is not, the traces on the end of the jamma edge do not go to ground, for whatever reason they are set to auxilary buttons 6, 7 , 8, 9, etc. You need to either cover them up/remove the traces, or rewire your cab to non-jamma to get them to work.

When i plugged it in it registered the button presses and would sort of freeze my xbox since it was assuming constant multiple button presses.

Also note that some one i modded one for told me the diagonal presses do not register, effectivly making the unit useless for Street Fighter or fighting games or anything that needs 8way directionals. I personally didn't notice this with mine, but some might have that problem or it might just be user error. I can post up a guide i made for some people on neo-geo.com for rewiring the harness to Jamma+ compliant if you would like. just let me know.

Mikeosoft wrote:hey dude i have bought and used 2 of them. Both worked ok, i bought one and modded it to be true Jamma Compliant, since it is not, the traces on the end of the jamma edge do not go to ground, for whatever reason they are set to auxilary buttons 6, 7 , 8, 9, etc. You need to either cover them up/remove the traces, or rewire your cab to non-jamma to get them to work.

When i plugged it in it registered the button presses and would sort of freeze my xbox since it was assuming constant multiple button presses.

Also note that some one i modded one for told me the diagonal presses do not register, effectivly making the unit useless for Street Fighter or fighting games or anything that needs 8way directionals. I personally didn't notice this with mine, but some might have that problem or it might just be user error. I can post up a guide i made for some people on neo-geo.com for rewiring the harness to Jamma+ compliant if you would like. just let me know.

I think i saw your post on coinops project in regards to the ground points, i wont be using a cab just the xbox in an xbox display unit that will use a LCD panel and i'll build a controller board with arcade sticks/buttons instead of xbox controllers.

BKO this is the Jamma standard although those boards do have variations in the low pins, Mikeosoft is indeed correct about them being different. I put this diagram up purely as a reference to show how you would hook it up for your application. These are your power connectors. They are usually hardwired together on most boards but I would check anyway. You may only need one ground each side, one +5 each side and one 12 volt each side. -5 volt hasn't been used for years. It was there to go with the +12 to make 17 volts potential to run the real early 18 volt amps only. Each side being "Solder side" and "Parts side".
Keyslot means Keyway, A plastic keyway is in the plug to prevent you putting the connector on the board the wrong way.
Coin counters are +12 volt switching outputs to drive the 2 coin meters. There is one output pulse on the output to suit which side coin switch was made. This can be changed to suit denominations like a $1 coin can be made to give 10 pulses to the appropriate coin meter. This is done on the game board.
Lockout coil is a +12 volt supply to drive the lockout coil that has a bracket to make any coins reject instead of going through the coin mech and into the cash box. When the machine is on, +12 volt is supplied to the coil holding the bracket out of the way. Machine not on = no power so all coins will reject.
Speaker (-) and Speaker (+).. You may want to hook up your machine sound speaker to this because the board as with all arcade boards has an amplifier suitable for driving a 5Watt, 8 Ohm speaker.
N/C and N/C are usually converted to become Speaker2 (=) and Speaker2 (+) for boards that have twin amps for the two channels of stereo. Most late boards and late Jamma harnesses have this. Not real sure about these boards, Have a look and see if it has 2 amps on the board.
Video green, video red, video sync, video blue and video ground are used to drive the arcade's picture tube of which you aren't using as you want to run normal T.V. monitor. You could use these outputs if your monitor has a VGA plug on it and the monitor is happy to run on an NTSC signal and most importantly can handle 5 volts point to point signals. This last point is where most people get it wrong resulting in bad overdrive of the 3 colours on the screen. You can adjust the colour's drive voltage by putting resistors in each line to drop the voltage so it doesn't pull the colours fully on. Even dropping the monitor's brightness is not recommended as you will eventually blow the monitors colour inputs. Be very aware of this problem BKO. I would just hack into the console's AV cable and grab the Component or Composite leads before they get to the board, put some connectors on them and just plug them in the monitor. It is a lot safer as the Xbox's video drive voltage is designed with T.V.s in mind.
Tilt (SLAM) switch is a switch mounted to the coin door that sends a reset signal to the game board. This is to prevent hitting the coin door and getting the coin switch to possibly bounce and give unpaid credits.
Test switch is for putting the game board into it's menu for operator game and coin adjustments.
Coin switch #2 and Coin switch #1 go to the coin mech switches. The other side of the switches are ground.
These are all pretty self explained. There must go to normally open switches and the other side of the switches are all common grounded.
The N/C positions are usually long converted to the other 3 buttons used on most modern games but this is also where the variation of these boards pinout varys. Hopefully your board will have the correct data to suit it. If not let me know and I'll dig my data up and include the variations. A bit of advise would be to get yourself a NEW Jamma harness avaliable from either the place that you get the board, (Hong Kong) or one of the many arcade suppliers in Melbourne. Bumper Action has them at a realistic price. Should be between $10 and $20 but that will save heaps of time making the harness from scratch as I did in the bad old days before harnesses were pre-made and completely colour coded. Good luck aye. Let us know how you go. Very interested how you go and would love to see some progress pics.

Cheers Steve, the same supplier has the harness for $9 which is cheap enough that i wouldnt even consider making it up myself. Since it has VGA out on the PCB i will just use an LCD monitor since they are cheaper in the size i want to use of 24". If i like the way it works i might even build a proper cab to house it in but hopefully the display unit will work ok.

I just hooked up one of these in a cabinet to a Xbox it required modification to the Jamma loom as the board differs to the Jamma standard.

Specifically the Jamma standard does not specify 6 button controls and on games like streetfighter the actual game board has extra terminals for these buttons.
So the board has a few spare pins and extra ground pins and they are made use of for these extra buttons so it can be connected with a single connector.

Basically I had to remove some ground wires to the commons on the buttons and attach it to the main ground terminals and solder in extra 3 buttons for each player, it would of been nice if the board had the extra cps3 6 button kick connector and it would then just plug in as it would now not work on an actual game board.

if I was to do it again I would make an adaptor loom so I did not have to modify the original console loom wiring.

It is really only of use for Mame and Coinops as the board only caters for the buttons triggers and directional pad and as you possibly want to play streetfighter etc you would map the 6 buttons to abyx white and black so you cant easily adjust the volume in XBMC.

the Ipac I have used before would be more suitable for XBMC and Xbox game use as you can program and map all the Xbox buttons and use modifier keys to change the function of the keys (like shift on a keyboard) but it lacks the timer feature.