XBMC4Xbox

Pull the DVDrive out and remove the DVDrive caddy, it clips on the drive.

Undo the 4 screws.

Remove the top case.

Flip it over and remove the lower case cover.

Tip the DVDrive on it's end and put a screw drive in this square slot.

Push in with the screw drive till the DVD tray comes out slightly. It will come out about 10mm.

Pull the tray till it comes out and you can see the motor with the belt.

Flip off the belt with the screw drive.

Put on a new belt, I used "O" rings myself, with your fingers. I got "O" rings to suit from my bearing supplier. The size is 19-20mm. These are standard "O" rings available from any bearing supplier. Grab a couple of sizes smaller and larger just in case. Not a big investment, 25 cents each I paid for each and that way you know you have the right size.
While the unit is apart, you may as well clean the laser. That is the laser in front of the TipEx or cotton bud as we call them here. It is the glass looking thing.

I use Isopropyl alcohol myself on the TipEx or cotton bud, not to much, just enough to dampen the cotton. Wipe it on the glass area and give it a soft clean. I have found dust balls on the laser meaning it would have had trouble read if at all. It will evaporate before the machine is back together so no need to dry.
Put everything back in the case where it should go and test it out. If the tray runs smooth, you selected a good sized "O" ring. If it is not smooth but trying to move it is to tight. If it refuses to move the "O" ring is too loose.
Now put a game disc in and try it for reading.

If all works fine, put the machine back together and enjoy your repairs.
These pictures are from a couple of different brands of DVDrives but the views are very close on all brands. The one with blue internals are from a Hitachi from a 1.6 machine. The other pictures with all white internals are from a Samsung unit out of a 1.4 machine. Not an issue, they all look very similar but don't be surprised seeing slight variations. Mechanically they are near identical and all using the same belt/ motor setup.

man you get all fancy i just put the original bands in boiling water and it softens them up.

I dont even pull apart the console apart to do it I repair it through the front with the drive open

Yer you can just open the drawer to get to the belt but I like to clean all the dust and crap out of the internals as well. For some reason cockroaches like to live and die in these things, and it takes about 5 minutes and the thing is in bits. A lot of this last batch of machines I got haven't run for a number of years and the belts were actually shaped oval and simply weren't tight enough to run the gears on the drive any longer so replacement was my best option. I also find cleaning the laser is a must. It does help so much. Like I said I have found dust balls on the lasers. I'm thinking the discs much become static and pick up dust and when running in the DVDrive, the laser being the closest point to the disc can gather up this dust resulting in the dust balls. One machine had a complete covering of dust over it including the laser holder itself. The "O" rings are working well, no more needing to "tap on the top of the machine" to get the tray to eject. . I have changed 15 belts so far on machines that simply refused to eject and all now work as factory so looks like it works quite well. I see it as a cheap fix for a very annoying problem.

I bought some O rings from DX, but I'm going to try this method professor_jonny did. I have a Samsung drive in my main Xbox too.

professor_jonny wrote:man you get all fancy i just put the original bands in boiling water and it softens them up.

I dont even pull apart the console apart to do it I repair it through the front with the drive open

Me too, i just remove the band with tweezers and clean it in isopropyl and refit.

Link for new O rings anyone?

(I'd rather not end up with a fan belt for a 1973 Renault 4, or a bearing seal for a 2003 Zanussi washer/dryer.)

These guys sell o-rings
http://www.bearingtraders.com/o-rings/

Maybe this will help - this belt is from one of my dead Samsung drives. A little distorted from being in-situ for a LONG time. Approximate dimensions are 26mm diameter(outside), 23mm diameter (inside), 1.5 x 1.5 mm square cross section. Apologies for blurry image.

The round "O" rings work perfectly well, they don't need to be square as per original. Also, "O" rings are always measured internally which taking into consideration, the ring thickness being 1.5-2mm X 2 sides = 3-4mm and minus this off your 24mm = 19-20mm. I said grab a couple either side of this because I have found the rings on Phillips drives is slightly larger by a millimeter or two than the other brands of DVDrives. Also as the band wears or stretches, the smaller sizes may be necessary. I may be wrong in assuming this but only time will tell.

bigkidoz wrote: i just remove the band with tweezers and clean it in isopropyl and refit.

iso or rubbing fluid will remove the natural oils from the rubber it will make it fail and perish sooner, clean the drive bell pulleys that way but soapy water is best to clean neopreme rubber belts.

professor_jonny wrote: iso or rubbing fluid will remove the natural oils from the rubber it will make it fail and perish sooner, clean the drive bell pulleys that way but soapy water is best to clean neopreme rubber belts.

I tend to agree agree with this however if you truly wish to rejuvenate the bands, I would be using castor oil. It is a trick used on model airplanes that use band powered propellers. I honestly think soap will in the short term, be very grippy but will wear off over time. You could also try brake fluid to rejuvenate the bands. It was a trick I was taught years ago for restoring car rubber seals. This works amazingly and makes the rubber look brand new no matter how old they. Once clean and soft, wash off the brake fluid with detergent and water. Just in case someone tries this on a car, just make sure you remove the rubber parts off the painted parts before putting brake fluid on or your paint will melt.

Hold up there guys. These belts are made from neoprene, which is entirely synthetic, unlike rubber. So talk of natural oils and the like is bogus. Soapy water is the best advice.

spicemuseum wrote:Hold up there guys. These belts are made from neoprene, which is entirely synthetic, unlike rubber. So talk of natural oils and the like is bogus. Soapy water is the best advice.

You are right it is actually ozone damage that causes rubber and to a lesser extent neopreme to deteroate, antiozonant are added to neopreme and rubber to help protect them and they can be leached out with solvents, some chemicals case them to deteroiate and it is best not to use them as you dont know what they have in their contents.