XBMC4Xbox

The green LEDs have failed on my v1.4. Reds still work. I've changed the XBMC config to show red instead, but I'd like to repair the green.

Since both have failed at the same time I'm assuming it's not the LEDs themselves, but something in the driving circuitry. Before I go off-pisting down a search engine encouraged blind alley, any tips from The Knowledge in this place?

Grab an LED of similar size and match up the legs to the LED on the P/E board and see if it lights up. Could be a loose yellow wire on the harness.

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a46 ... Wiring.jpg

Try using a jumper wire from the LEDs to the pins on board according to the pic above. If it works with a jumper, then the problem is likely in the front switchpanel board. If not, test with a testlight/LED like nextelhalo said. If still doesn't work, you got bigger issues.

Thanks gents, I'll investigate as suggested, but I have to say it seems unlikely that wires to both pin 5 and pin 8 have failed simultaneously. Is the signal to both derived from a common point on the main board somewhere?

From what I've read, missing LED colors could be a problem with trace corrosion.

I've had this same problem with my Trusty 1GHZ since i got it, only one color works. Never found out why but I'd be interested to see what you find.

Nextelhalo wrote:I've had this same problem with my Trusty 1GHZ since i got it, only one color works. Never found out why but I'd be interested to see what you find.

Sadly not much
Without serious debugging - which I'd have to do on a workshop lab bench rather than at home - I couldn't see anything obviously wrong.

...that is except for a spectacularly leaked clock cap, which I removed and cleaned around. I got pictures which I may upload.

BTW, how b100dy difficult is it to get that front panel off! (is there a special technique?)

Watch whufclee's vid to add a fan. He shows how to disassemble the case and all components.
Video is in this link. He takes the front panel off at the 13:07 mark.

http://www.xbmc4xbox.org.uk/forum/viewt ... f=14&t=218

Here you go Spice. I personally use a butter knife or the blunt end of a spoon to pry the 1st end off but while your working on the corner prying it, lift the tab on that side with your finger and you won't break the tab. Once a side is off, do the center tab and then the lat tab and the face will fall off, (without breaking any tabs).
http://www.llamma.com/xbox/Repairs/remo ... _panel.htm

xman wrote:Here you go Spice. I personally use a butter knife or the blunt end of a spoon...
http://www.llamma.com/xbox/Repairs/remo ... _panel.htm

Good tip, and link. Thanks, I'll try it out later.

Mr Majik, I suspect because Lee fully dismantled his case and chassis internals, the front panel was easier to pry off - certainly looked a lot easier than it was for me using a screwdriver on my chassis - which was intact apart from the lid being off - I was in distinct danger of wrecking the corner of the front panel.

I have to agree with xman, a butter knife is pretty ideal - unfortunately I didn't have one to hand when doing the video! Just be careful when prizing it off as I managed to completely crack on of the front panels in half once. Not sure whether it's easier to take off with a full dismantle or not, don't think I've tried taking it off any other way, it's always been the final thing I dismantle. Good luck

I find using one side of a plastic ruler workers well personally.

I personally use auto body door clip tools. Did you undo the tabs inside the case as well? hope you didn't crack them.

It's a problem with corroded traces. You don't need to take off the front panel. Just remove the motherboard and follow this tutorial:
http://www.theisozone.com/tutorials/xbo ... on-repair/

MrMajst3r wrote:It's a problem with corroded traces. You don't need to take off the front panel. Just remove the motherboard and follow this tutorial:
http://www.theisozone.com/tutorials/xbo ... on-repair/

Thanks, the traces didn't look corroded but I'll look again.

However, looking at the symptoms described in that tutorial, none match the issue I'm seeing...
"
Due to this corrosion, it was found that some X-Boxes affected can produce the following symptoms:
(1) The X-Box fails to power down using the power on/off button on the front panel. The power cord has to be pulled out to shut it down.
(2) As soon as the power cord is plugged in, the X-Box powers up without pressing either the on/off or eject buttons.
(3) While the X-Box is on for a certain amount of time, it shuts down by itself for no reason. The time factor before shut down can vary wildly.
"

Update...
I took the board out for a closer look this evening. Although there was barely the tiniest corrosion, buzzing out those four traces confirmed the top one and third one have high resistance so are essentially o/c.
So thanks Mister Maj, great advice. Tomorrow I will add some mod wire to link the vias and let you know the outcome.

You have two "Mr Maj" replying in your thread. lol. I will assume you meant majst3r. Either way, congrats.

mrmajikbus45 wrote:You have two "Mr Maj" replying in your thread.

Yes, thanks to you both, but in this case Mr Majster ("meister", assuming my Polish pronouncation is correct !).

So thanks to the gaffer.

I've now added the mod wires to repair the traces, I'll re-assemble later and report back.

I was actually the one who originally mentioned trace corrosion. Haha. Glad you got it figured out. I would suggest wiring all of the traces now because it's likely only a matter of time before all of the traces start corroding.

AZImmortal wrote:I was actually the one who originally mentioned trace corrosion. Haha. Glad you got it figured out. I would suggest wiring all of the traces now because it's likely only a matter of time before all of the traces start corroding.

Kudos to you too, Immortal one.

Anyway, as it happens I did take the precaution of doing those that have not yet failed too.

And I have now reassembled and ...SUCCESS, GREEN LEDS .