XBMC4Xbox

Sweet, well that is what I will do. One question though. There is no need to remove the TSOP bridges once it is TSOPed is there?. I thinking no but would be nice to confirm this from the TSOP master. I need to keep the costs of these machines down and not needing a chip for every machine helps. Looks like as it is all these machines are going to need AVI cables and controllers as I haven't received a call to say, "they have found them", so far.
I have more than 40 controllers all needing new cables but that is more work. I certainly don't have 40 AVI cables spare. I can get new composite ones but the price is what I can get component sets for.

You can leave the bridges as is after the flash.

Why install a chip just to softmod then tsop, complete waste of time.

bigkidoz wrote:Why install a chip just to softmod then tsop, complete waste of time.

I don't have a 007 or mech assault game the reason why I do it this way.
If you sell it to someone who wants to fit a chip they can.
It saves you a chip cost as you remove it when finished.
you can then run an unlocked hard disk and all the benefits of a hard mod.

Win win I say

I have another question, once the modchip is installed, the TSOP links are in place, can I boot HeXEn off the HDD or does HeXEn need to boot from a disc when I use HeXEn to install a softmod?.

hi xman, im curious to know out of the many xbox's you got how many came with a 10gb hdd. Ive seen plenty of people mentioning certain models came with them but Ive worked with xboxs for years and had many many consoles but as of yet still have only seen the standard 8gb variants

I've seen a couple in this batch. Can't say exactly how many . I seem to think they were in 1.6 machines but I may be wrong. Generally if is a big massive thing and the size isn't at least 200GB, it's going to be a throw away. Why, are you after them?.

not really mate saw another thread a while back about different dvd drive and different cables in various machines and just thought in all the time Ive used and worked on xbox;'s Ive never came across them. maybe rather than a model version it a region specific thing

sixties keith wrote:different dvd drive and different cables in various machines and just thought in all the time Ive used and worked on xbox;'s Ive never came across them. maybe rather than a model version it a region specific thing

What I am finding is if the DVDrive has the control cable, (not the IDE cable ), plugged in the left side of the IDE, it is the white cable used. If it plugs in the right side of the IDE, it is the yellow cable used. I layed them both side by side and found the yellow is slightly longer. Stands to reason as it needs to reach longer. I never realized this till ripping apart these machines and checking.

xman wrote:...if the DVDrive has the control cable, (not the IDE cable ), plugged in the left side of the IDE, it is the white cable used. If it plugs in the right side of the IDE, it is the yellow cable used.

There are 2 versions of the Samsung drive with this difference. Sadly both versions suffer the same drive-belt issues.

I have repaired a number of them with "O" rings...
http://www.xbmc4xbox.org.uk/forum/viewt ... 125#p28125

xman wrote:I have another question, once the modchip is installed, the TSOP links are in place, can I boot HeXEn off the HDD or does HeXEn need to boot from a disc when I use HeXEn to install a softmod?.

I don't know if you can run hexen from hdd you may have to ask someone else but...

I would Just boot it up as a dvd and install the softmod then take out the chip just ( like you would with slayers on a chipped xbox.)

The chip is just so you can run a dvd or or ftp the soft mod files to the xbox.

P,J. what was the name of that low melting temperature solder you use for doing the TSOP points?. I can't find that post you wrote about using it anywhere. I like the idea of using solder to link rather than using a dedicated link that would be my normal approach. I'm quite happy using my normal Tin / lead solder for the pin headers but that solder method you spoke of to do the TSOP points shows good merits and is a bloody brilliant idea I think. I just need to know the solder type so I can copy it.

You can use any old solder to bridge the TSOP points, no need for anything special or a link

asbo wrote:You can use any old solder to bridge the TSOP points, no need for anything special or a link

I would add that setting your soldering iron at a low temperature set point (still hot enough to melt solder but barely) will help when trying to "drop" the solder on the solder pads you need to bridge. A tiny drop of flux on top of those pads will also help make the solder bridge those 2.

I always just use normal solder, i keep testing the end of my iron with solder until it starts to melt & at the point it melts onto the tip normally, turn off the iron and within a few goes you can carefully draw solder from one pad to the next. job done. Total cost = 1 tiny short piece of solder

started off using old skool fuse wire to temp join the pads but discovered an easy way of jut bridging them with solder whilst pre tinning the pads to make soldering the wire pinned down with tweezers easier

I also use the gentoox loader xbe file to flash the chip when evox fails.

xman wrote:P,J. what was the name of that low melting temperature solder you use for doing the TSOP points?. I can't find that post you wrote about using it anywhere. I like the idea of using solder to link rather than using a dedicated link that would be my normal approach. I'm quite happy using my normal Tin / lead solder for the pin headers but that solder method you spoke of to do the TSOP points shows good merits and is a bloody brilliant idea I think. I just need to know the solder type so I can copy it.

you don't need to use low temp solder setting your iron to just above melting point will help to make it tacky, here is some low temp solder, it can save scortching small tracks and vias:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/toys-models/mo ... 388825.htm

I brought it to solder batterys and flexible ribbon assemblys like on lcd displays and replacing mic's on cell phones.

Sweet, thanks for that PJ.. I figure if I don't use it for the TSOP points, I will definitely use it for battery work that I remember you mentioned before. I quite often need to solder to dry cell battery packs.

I imagine you're pretty competent at soldering but a good tip I came across is to use conductive paint - can apply easily with a toothpick or similar

xman wrote:Sweet, thanks for that PJ.. I figure if I don't use it for the TSOP points, I will definitely use it for battery work that I remember you mentioned before. I quite often need to solder to dry cell battery packs.

soldering to batterys is a bad idea bad but if you don't have a capacitive discharge spot wielder it is hard.

I have one in the making I have not finished it yet but is the best solution as you will not damage battery vents:

http://frikkieg.blogspot.com/