Reparing Original Consoles

Discussion about Modding the XBOX, including hardware and software hacks.
User avatar
NeMesiS
Posts: 188
Joined: Sun May 10, 2015 3:56 am
Location: Melbourne
Has thanked: 1 time
Been thanked: 12 times

Reparing Original Consoles

Post by NeMesiS » Mon Aug 31, 2015 4:22 am

I found some really cheap original xbox consoles which were apparently faulty.
I bought 14 consoles from 3 different sellers over the weekend.
So far I've been able to pickup 11 of the 14 consoles, will get the last 3 later today.
Some are modded but many of the consoles I've got a not really all that bad:

One modded console with upgraded HDD was showing error 7,
The drive was set to "master" instead of "cable select" easy fix

Apparently another two consoles had faulty PSU but when I opened them,
I noticed one was a 1.4/5 and the other was a 1.6, swapped PSU's around, fixed.

Theres a unmodded 1.4/5 console but the HDD has failed, can be fixed...

A couple have non working DVD drives...

Looks like I've got about 3 dead 1.6 consoles which I haven't looked into further as yet.

I have another dead 1.0/1 console, it seems the PSU is dead...
But when I connect a working PSU the led flashes orange a few times then powers off.
I'd really like to get this one working, any ideas?

User avatar
NeMesiS
Posts: 188
Joined: Sun May 10, 2015 3:56 am
Location: Melbourne
Has thanked: 1 time
Been thanked: 12 times

Re: Reparing Original Consoles

Post by NeMesiS » Mon Aug 31, 2015 4:46 am

Some references I've found:

Xbox error codes explained:
http://forums.afterdawn.com/threads/xbo ... st.373255/

Xbox led error codes explained:
http://www.xbox-hq.com/html/xbox-tutori ... rrorcodes5

User avatar
xman
Posts: 1288
Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2012 2:30 pm
Location: Sydney, Australia
Has thanked: 55 times
Been thanked: 168 times

Re: Reparing Original Consoles

Post by xman » Mon Aug 31, 2015 8:28 am

I could part with a few your way. Wife might love me if I get rid of some of the Xboxes. :? Maybe parts so it gives me a reason get rid of a few.

User avatar
NeMesiS
Posts: 188
Joined: Sun May 10, 2015 3:56 am
Location: Melbourne
Has thanked: 1 time
Been thanked: 12 times

Re: Reparing Original Consoles

Post by NeMesiS » Mon Aug 31, 2015 10:15 am

xman wrote:I could part with a few your way. Wife might love me if I get rid of some of the Xboxes. :? Maybe parts so it gives me a reason get rid of a few.
Yea that be great, just have to get ontop of the ones I got already...
I scored the last 3 consoles in exchange to mod and upgrade hes personal console.
Its already chipped so I'll reflash it and use that 250gb from the other console.
I got 2x 1.0 consoles and a 1.6 with XC moddhip...

ATM my thoughts are to TSOP flash consoles versions 1.0 to 1.5.
I'm considering upgrading RAM, if I can source parts cheap enough.
Have enough working Samsung DVDroms for all (about 8) working 1.0 to 1.5 consoles
I've been trying to look for old IDE drives but people asking too much for them.
If I were to upgrade HDD, I think my best option would be to get,
1TB Samsung Barracuda drives and a Sata to IDE adaptor/converter.

Looking at aftermarket AV leads it would be just as cheap to buy a component to HDMI converter.
Hardwire it into the console, somehow remove the old audio/video out connections and
replace it with a HDMI connector...

After TSOP flashing .10/5 consoles I should have enough modchips for all 1.6 consoles.
I got 3x DuoX2, 2 are blue and 1 white... And that XC modchip...
But they all have rusty solder points and dont look the best of conditions.
I have a local source which can supply me with Aladdin Advance v1.0-1.6 chips.
I'll install whatever working Thompson and Philips drives I have left into these consoles.
I might not bother with a HDD upgrade and just leave them with standard drives.

Considered replacing IDE cables, but I dont think I can just buy a 40cm cable on ebay
and expect it to fit, I may need to make them myself...
Also considering replacing all capacitors on the mobo's and psu's.
I will make a component list for each xbox version I have and post it here...

Long term I'd like to make a living from modding original xbox consoles again.
But for now my intentions are to give a few of these to friends and family for Christmass.
And a 1.6 for dad so he can watch things from my NAS...

User avatar
NeMesiS
Posts: 188
Joined: Sun May 10, 2015 3:56 am
Location: Melbourne
Has thanked: 1 time
Been thanked: 12 times

Re: Reparing Original Consoles

Post by NeMesiS » Wed Sep 02, 2015 10:20 am

1.0 console has the following capacitors..

13x 25v 22uf
6x 25v 100uf
3x 16v 1500uf
2x 10v 3300uf
1x 10v 680uf
5x 6.3v 1500uf

And RAM...
Samsung 211
K4D263238M-QC50

I found this on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BRAND-NEW-Sa ... 3f2e4e303d

It appears to be the right chip but the description is a little off:
"BRAND NEW Samsung K4D263238M-QC50 128M DDR SDRAM 1PCS NEW"

Not that I want to pay that much via eBay, I've found other sources but...
The question is the what does the "211" mean? Does it have to be matching?
For example the one on eBay is "205" (which I think are in v1.4/1.5) Does it matter?

User avatar
NeMesiS
Posts: 188
Joined: Sun May 10, 2015 3:56 am
Location: Melbourne
Has thanked: 1 time
Been thanked: 12 times

Re: Reparing Original Consoles

Post by NeMesiS » Thu Sep 03, 2015 3:04 am

I mostly want the RAM for upgrade, but if I upgrade the RAM am I better of replacing them all?

User avatar
NeMesiS
Posts: 188
Joined: Sun May 10, 2015 3:56 am
Location: Melbourne
Has thanked: 1 time
Been thanked: 12 times

Re: Reparing Original Consoles

Post by NeMesiS » Fri Sep 04, 2015 8:23 am

I forgot to mention the clock capacitor which is 2.5v 1F
Version 1.1 consoles have pretty much the same capacitors
but instead of the 25v 22uf... 50v 22uf were used...

Both 1.0 & 1.1 PSU versions have:
2x 200v 330uf
3x 10v 2200uf
1x 16v 1000uf

I've ordered some very nice replacement capacitors which I should get sometime next week.

I've noticed the CPU fans on 1.0 versions are quiet noisy by now.
I wasn't able to find an exact replacement but a standard 40mm fan would fit within the heatsink nicely

I have Thompson DVDS in all my version 1.0 & 1.1 consoles...
Some were not opening properly or not reading the disc.
I spent some time on one by pulling it apart and cleaning it thoroughly.
I also used a cotton tip with window cleaner for the laser... It worked...
But I'd like to replace the rubber belt, Ive seen youtube videos where people
used elastic rubber bands. I thought a rubber O-ring would do the job.
Local bearings shop didnt have the size I needed, so I ordered a few rings at 27, 26 & 25mm
One of those sizes should work just not sure which one as yet...

User avatar
NeMesiS
Posts: 188
Joined: Sun May 10, 2015 3:56 am
Location: Melbourne
Has thanked: 1 time
Been thanked: 12 times

Re: Reparing Original Consoles

Post by NeMesiS » Sat Sep 05, 2015 7:22 am

I wanted to know what caps were worth buying and the ones to avoid:

Good Cap Brands:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=414

Bad Cap Brands:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=388

User avatar
bigkidoz
Posts: 638
Joined: Thu Jul 12, 2012 4:33 am
Location: Melbourne, Australia.
Has thanked: 19 times
Been thanked: 35 times

Re: Reparing Original Consoles

Post by bigkidoz » Thu Sep 10, 2015 10:57 am

I take the bands out and just clean them with isopropyl alc and put them back and they usually work after that, some need the dust cleaned out of the tracks and gears.
Sent from my android coz apple is for pie.

User avatar
NeMesiS
Posts: 188
Joined: Sun May 10, 2015 3:56 am
Location: Melbourne
Has thanked: 1 time
Been thanked: 12 times

Re: Reparing Original Consoles

Post by NeMesiS » Sun Sep 13, 2015 6:51 am

I made some better observations...

-------------------------------------------
Versions 1.0 to 1.1
-------------------------------------------

Mobo Caps:
13x 25v 22uf Nichicon VR
6x 25v 100uf Nichicon VR
3x 16v 1500uf Nichicon PW
2x 10v 3300uf Nichicon PW
1x 10v 680uf Nichicon PW
5x 6.3v 1500uf Nichicon HD (Solid/Wet)
1x 1F 2.5v SuperStor!

SMD Caps:
1x 16v 47uf
6x 16v 10uf

PSU Caps:
1x 50v 10uf Ltec (Gold)
1x 25v 47uf Ltec (Blue/Green)
2x 25v 100uf Nippon KY
2x 200v 330uf Taicon?
3x 10v 2200uf Nippon KY
1x 16v 1000uf Nippon KY

RAM:
Samsung 211
K4D263238M-QC50

-------------------------------------------
Versions 1.2 to 1.5
-------------------------------------------

Mobo Caps:
13x 25v 22uf Nichicon VR
7x 25v 100uf Nichicon VR
3x 6.3v 3300uf Nichicon HM
2x 10v 3300uf Nichicon PW
1x 16v 680uf Nichicon PW
3x 6.3v 1500uf Nichicon HD (Solid)
1x 1F 2.5v SuperStor!

SMD Caps:
1x 16v 47uf
5x 16v 10uf

PSU Caps:
1x 400v 150uf Rubycon USR
3x 50v 0.22uf Taicon?
2x 25v 100uf Taicon?
1x 25v 47uf Taicon?
3x 10v 2200uf Ltec (Blue/Green)
1x 16v 1000uf Ltec (Blue/Green)

RAM:
Samsung 404
K4D263238F-QC50

-------------------------------------------
Version 1.6
-------------------------------------------

Mobo Caps:
11x 25v 22uf Nichicon VR
3x 25v 100uf Nichicon VR
3x 6.3v 1500uf Rubycon ZL (Wet)
5x 6.3v 3300uf Rubycon MBZ

SMD Caps:
1x 16v 47uf
3x 16v 10uf

PSU Caps:
3x 50v 1uf CapXon?
1x 50v 0.47uf CapXon?
1x 50v 10uf CapXon?
1x 50v 22uf CapXon?
1x 10v 2200uf CapXon?
1x 25v 470uf CapXon?
1x 10v 3300uf CapXon?
2x 200v 330uf CapXon?

RAM: N/A

-------------------------------------------
Notes and Findings:
-------------------------------------------
* Brands may vary slightly but I've noticed mostly good caps are used on all versions.
* RAM versions may also vary slightly.
* Versions 1.0 to 1.5 have the bad PowerStor clock capacitor which tends leak acid
However on the 1.6 mobo a Nichicon supercap has been used. I'm assuming to address the leak.
* 1500uf 6.3v - Versions 1.1 to 1.5 use a Solid Capacitor, where 1.0 & 1.6 use a Wet Capacitor.
* Out of 2 Version 1.1 consoles, one had been given 22uf 50v caps instead of 22uf 25v.
* 22uf 25v caps are mostly used within all xbox versions
* Brands of the SMD caps could not be identified.
* Version 1.1 has a missing 3300uf 10v cap but its still allocated on the board.

-------------------------------------------
Questions:
-------------------------------------------
* Could a higher voltage cap be used alternatively whilst maintaining the same capacitance? eg. 10v instead of 6.3v, 50/25v or 16/10v
* Would there by any advantage in doing so, extended life expectancy or better performance?
* When selecting replacement capacitors, is it better to have a higher ripple current and lower leakage current?
(I found a Nichicon distributor, It wouldnt cost much extra to upgrade the capacitors from PW to HD or HE Series caps)
* RAM: Looking at two consoles, Version 1.0 has "Samsung 211 / K4D263238M-QC50"
And the Version 1.5 has "Samsung 404 / K4D263238F-QC50" I get the model number 1.0 has M and 1.5 F
* But what do the 211 and 404 mean, are they significant in any way?
* When buying RAM chips do I need to match the M/F variants or the unknown number?
* With the 1500uf 6.3v caps, Does it matter if Solid or Wet caps are used?
* Could I fill the missing cap on the version 1.1 mobo, mentioned earlier?

-------------------------------------------
Part Sources:
-------------------------------------------
* Mentioned earlier that I found a Nichicon Distributor which has all the caps I could want.
* Found a source for RAM chips, about $9USD / $14AUD for 5 pieces including postage.
* Also come across a source for replacement lasers for Samsung, Philips and Thomson drives.
Last edited by NeMesiS on Sun Sep 13, 2015 6:56 am, edited 1 time in total.

User avatar
NeMesiS
Posts: 188
Joined: Sun May 10, 2015 3:56 am
Location: Melbourne
Has thanked: 1 time
Been thanked: 12 times

Re: Reparing Original Consoles

Post by NeMesiS » Sun Sep 13, 2015 6:53 am

bigkidoz wrote:I take the bands out and just clean them with isopropyl alc and put them back and they usually work after that, some need the dust cleaned out of the tracks and gears.
I thought I try O-rings as they only cost a few cents and hopefully have a bit more tension than the old bands.

User avatar
bigkidoz
Posts: 638
Joined: Thu Jul 12, 2012 4:33 am
Location: Melbourne, Australia.
Has thanked: 19 times
Been thanked: 35 times

Re: Reparing Original Consoles

Post by bigkidoz » Mon Sep 14, 2015 10:13 am

O-rings are too rigid and will just slip, what might work is those silicon loom band rings like my daughters play with.
Sent from my android coz apple is for pie.

hawsey
Posts: 504
Joined: Tue Jul 17, 2012 8:25 pm
Has thanked: 47 times
Been thanked: 30 times

Re: Reparing Original Consoles

Post by hawsey » Mon Sep 14, 2015 10:18 am

The loom bands disintegrate very quickly , just from ones I have lying around my house :-)

User avatar
Mikey
Posts: 18
Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2012 5:46 pm
Has thanked: 10 times
Been thanked: 3 times

Re: Reparing Original Consoles

Post by Mikey » Mon Sep 14, 2015 3:19 pm

NeMesiS wrote:But what do the 211 and 404 mean, are they significant in any way?
If I remember correctly, the 211 and 404 are just date stamps. So, 211 would be Year 2002 and Week 11.

User avatar
NeMesiS
Posts: 188
Joined: Sun May 10, 2015 3:56 am
Location: Melbourne
Has thanked: 1 time
Been thanked: 12 times

Re: Reparing Original Consoles

Post by NeMesiS » Tue Sep 15, 2015 3:04 am

bigkidoz wrote:O-rings are too rigid and will just slip, what might work is those silicon loom band rings like my daughters play with.
What like an everyday rubber band?

I got these O-rings for Thomson drive (below), 28mm fits firmly & 27mm are a little tighter.
They seem to do the trick (not that I'm trying to argue the point, already picked em up few days ago)
The old band cross section was square in shape where the O-rings are round.
The wheels have a V channel in them, which seems to help grip the O-ring under tension
Using the 28mm O-ring its not terribly easy to force the O-ring to slip
Actually the old ring slips quite easily...
Mikey wrote:If I remember correctly, the 211 and 404 are just date stamps. So, 211 would be Year 2002 and Week 11.
Great, Thanks...

So far I've come across 3 different variations of the RAM chip:
Samsung K4D263238M-QC50 (v1.0-1.1)
Samsung K4D263238D-QC50 (v1.2-1.3)
Samsung K4D263238F-QC50 (v1.4-1.5)

For a RAM upgrade do the M, D or F in the model number need to be matching?

Thanks everyone...
Attachments
DSC04354.JPG
DSC04351.JPG
DSC04350.JPG

User avatar
NeMesiS
Posts: 188
Joined: Sun May 10, 2015 3:56 am
Location: Melbourne
Has thanked: 1 time
Been thanked: 12 times

Re: Reparing Original Consoles

Post by NeMesiS » Tue Sep 15, 2015 9:41 am

Having a look at the rest of my consoles, 3 of 5 version 1.0 consoles have a "FoxLink" PSU
The PSU that I listed caps for earlier are all "Delta"

A Samsung PSU was mentioned on another thread found in a limited edition blue console (canada)

Are there any other PSU anyone is aware of?
Attachments
v1.0 FoxLink
v1.0 FoxLink
v1.0-1.1 Delta
v1.0-1.1 Delta
v1.2-1.5 Delta
v1.2-1.5 Delta
v1.6 Delta
v1.6 Delta

User avatar
NeMesiS
Posts: 188
Joined: Sun May 10, 2015 3:56 am
Location: Melbourne
Has thanked: 1 time
Been thanked: 12 times

Re: Reparing Original Consoles

Post by NeMesiS » Tue Sep 15, 2015 9:43 am

Would it hurt to cleat-coat or paint the sheilding to prevent rust?
Attachments
Rust Edition
Rust Edition

User avatar
xman
Posts: 1288
Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2012 2:30 pm
Location: Sydney, Australia
Has thanked: 55 times
Been thanked: 168 times

Re: Reparing Original Consoles

Post by xman » Tue Sep 15, 2015 2:48 pm

NeMesiS wrote:Would it hurt to cleat-coat or paint the sheilding to prevent rust?
I used Killrust paint and it is there forever. Just a light sand and spray on, perfect.
Hint....White metal shield in a frosted clear case looks amazing. ;)

Oww by the way, my "O"Ring modded DVDplayers work fine. I had many machines where the original band was just to badly deteriorated so it was the only way to fix them. I suppose only time will tell but it has been a couple of months now and they still appear to be working as new. There seems to be a sweet spot where the "O"ring size under will slow the tray down but will still work, just slower than stock and the size up will allow the "O"ring to slip. Added to this, the bands are different sizes. Phillips DVDrives for example use the "O"rings that are one size to big for the Sammy and Thomson DVDrives so don't expect one size fits all. Fortunately, it seems as all the brands are all within 2mms of each other although I haven't tried every brand of DVDrive yet. By the way, "O"rings are measured internally as they lay round with no stretch. Also my "O"rings are made of a rubber/ silicon mix. I chose these over normal rubber only rings. They are quite shiny.

User avatar
NeMesiS
Posts: 188
Joined: Sun May 10, 2015 3:56 am
Location: Melbourne
Has thanked: 1 time
Been thanked: 12 times

Re: Reparing Original Consoles

Post by NeMesiS » Tue Sep 15, 2015 5:49 pm

Cheers!
Hmmm, maybe matt black for normal console?

Yea I've been taking my dvdroms down to the local bearings shop
They had the rings for the thomson but rings for samsung will be there tomorrow.
Actually I'll be taking a look at this guys xbox to see whats wrong with it while I'm there

Earlier I discovered that there are 2 versions of the philips drive, SPU-3141 & VAD-6035
All I know are the lasers are different, I dont have a SPU-3141 to compare

User avatar
NeMesiS
Posts: 188
Joined: Sun May 10, 2015 3:56 am
Location: Melbourne
Has thanked: 1 time
Been thanked: 12 times

Re: Reparing Original Consoles

Post by NeMesiS » Wed Sep 16, 2015 8:26 am

From xbox showcase thread:
toxicmedz wrote:I personally replace any and all foxlink power supplys I come across with Delta ones. Don't Trust them.
What to do if you have nothing to replace it with?

Post Reply