Which chip for a V1.6?

[Ging3rguy]

Hi, I am new to xbox modding and have a V1.6 box that I would like to use with a 2tb drive (just because it's possible).
Can someone recommend which chip I should go for and then which bios?
Thanks

[BuZz]

Moved to XBOX Modding.

[bigkidoz]

Any chip with the correct bios for 1.6 will work and will depend on what you can find.

[Ging3rguy]

Thanks, I have ordered an Aladdin XT +2 and I'll see how I get on. It comes with the M8+ BIOS

[spicemuseum]

You'll need the m8plus_v16 BIOS for your v1.6 board (if you want to stick with an Evox BIOS, that is).

[xman]

I personally find the M8 bios to suit just the 1.6 board found on the old Slayer's 2.7 disc far more compatible with the 2Tb sata hard drives. The later M8 bios designed to suit all Xbox versions I found slower but also has issues with the 1 and 2Tb HDDs mainly F drive not always showing up on cold booting the machine.

[Ging3rguy]

I personally find the M8 bios to suit just the 1.6 board found on the old Slayer's 2.7 disc far more compatible with the 2Tb sata hard drives. The later M8 bios designed to suit all Xbox versions I found slower but also has issues with the 1 and 2Tb HDDs mainly F drive not always showing up on cold booting the machine.

Thanks for the advice, once I have the chip installed, have a 2Tb drive and a sata/ide jumper I will probably/definitely need some more help

[RunsilenT]

Well I took the plunge and decided to chip my first 1.6 box, she was scruffy and had a casing to match so unfortunately she
had all the attributes of a guinea pig. Believe it or not I cleaned this thing with an electronic alcohol spray and ear buds though
it still looks a state in photos. I bought some Aladdin XT Plus 2 chips from Eurasia and followed a very crude diagram from their
site. The pads on the actual chip are very thin as you can see my 15 watt soldering iron nearly toasted the things. All in all
it went well and shes running fine be it with the stock bios supplied. For a steadyish hand i recommend 2 cans of cider, Kynar wire
obviously and a low wattage soldering iron, weller or antex. A scruffy pup of a box also helps should it all go Pete Tong!

[spicemuseum]

...my 15 watt soldering iron nearly toasted the things.

Fifteen watts ??? That's basically an arc welder.

For a steadyish hand i recommend 2 cans of cider.

Ah, now I see where you went wrong. 2 bottles of bottle conditioned Nut Brown and it'd have been twice as good.

Anyway, well done, good work!

[RunsilenT]

Thanks Spice, I think you may be right, will try a bottle a broon next time. Ive popped mae 1.6 cherry so it can only
get easier from now on. Iron wise, 12w is the smallest ive found, but 10 years ago I weilded a 30w chisel tip without
a care in the world. I once watched a lad heat a soldering iron on his cooker, looked like a metalwork file and proceed
to chip a PS2, was like watching a caveman repair the space shuttle!

[xman]

Thanks Spice, I think you may be right, will try a bottle a broon next time. Ive popped mae 1.6 cherry so it can only
get easier from now on. Iron wise, 12w is the smallest ive found, but 10 years ago I weilded a 30w chisel tip without
a care in the world. I once watched a lad heat a soldering iron on his cooker, looked like a metalwork file and proceed
to chip a PS2, was like watching a caveman repair the space shuttle!

That looks a nice job and the 1.6 is the hardest to master. I honestly think though, the higher the wattage of the iron, the easier the job. My weapon of choice is a 65 watt temperature controller iron I use at 450c, it's hottest. Real hot means real quick melting of the solder. Holding the iron tip on the pads for a long time will lift them so you need to be quick. My iron may be significantly hotter but the tip is only on the pad for 1/2 second to melt the solder rather than a couple of seconds a colder tip needs. The glue holding the copper to the board will let go if you stay on them for so long. Better with short, quick hits than a long sustained lower heat.

[RunsilenT]

Wise words xman, I shall take onboard. I did find i was returning to joints quite a bit to tidy up or try and remove excess.
I`ve got Slayers 2.7 but Im not sure the bios I should be using as theres a few 1.6 bios on there at 256k. I definately need
one thats 2TB compatible at least. I also have a second hand box I got off ebay thats booting to an EvoX logo but the main screen X
is coloured blue. The thing wont load anything, possibly a bad bios. Will try the chip Ive just fitted in it incase it needs a reinstall. Im
just waiting on more aladdins as they seem to be out of stock lately.

[fxmech]

Check http://eurasia.nu

As for bios I find ind-bios 5003 well suited for most setups.

I've used it for Aladdin XT Plus 2s, with 2TB and adapters. Just not using a locked drive or 1.6 board yet. Of course you can run it unlocked but if the chip fails you can have it locked and softmods for an easy fix.

[RunsilenT]

Cheers Fxmech, sold out at Eurasia, xman must have cleaned them out for his industrial collection of xboxes
Anyway, ive ordered some from the dark side, Alixpress which is probably owned by Kim Jong-un in
some way so i`ll see what I get.

[xman]

I`ve got Slayers 2.7 but Im not sure the bios I should be using as theres a few 1.6 bios on there at 256k. I definately need
one thats 2TB compatible at least.

The bioses you need to be looking at are the ones listed as F G meaning suitable for F and G drives. This one if your after M8 for the 1.6....


Or this one if it was a 1.0-1.5 machine and again, if you wanted an M8 bios...



Both of these bioses will look exactly like this when the machine boots.


These bioses, I use on all my sales machines because they work no matter what size the HDD is. Even if the machine only has an 80GB HDD and just the F drive, these bioses will still work fine. It just means G drive will show up in XBMC's filemanager with 0 as the size, but this allows any HDD up to 2Tb be placed in that machine at any time and will work straight away.

I also have a second hand box I got off ebay thats booting to an EvoX logo but the main screen X is coloured blue.

Look familiar?

The thing wont load anything, possibly a bad bios.

Put the Slayer's disc in and use it's FTP to load just the Apps in the E/Apps and F/Apps locations> I say apps and not just XBMC because the startup App may not have been XBMC and just putting in all the apps in both the usual locations will get it running. You can clean out the unused later once it's up and going. By the way, if you get to the bios start splash screen, which you are, the bios is working fine. If it stops there it is the shortcut or the booting app at fault

Im just waiting on more aladdins as they seem to be out of stock lately.

So I just recently found out.

[professor_jonny]

That looks a nice job and the 1.6 is the hardest to master. I honestly think though, the higher the wattage of the iron, the easier the job. My weapon of choice is a 65 watt temperature controller iron I use at 450c, it's hottest. Real hot means real quick melting of the solder. Holding the iron tip on the pads for a long time will lift them so you need to be quick. My iron may be significantly hotter but the tip is only on the pad for 1/2 second to melt the solder rather than a couple of seconds a colder tip needs. The glue holding the copper to the board will let go if you stay on them for so long. Better with short, quick hits than a long sustained lower heat.

I have low temp solder for modding xboxes it is tin/lead/bismuth/copper and has a melting point of 227 degrees I set my iron to 240 and you can leave it on the pad all day with out lifting.

it is really god for tsop points as it is very sticky and easilly dragged across points.

it is usually used for model train assembly and soldering of batterypacks.

only problem is on the 1.0 xboxes as i have to desolder the lcp port prior to fitting a pin headder.

[RunsilenT]

Well thats the exact boot screen im getting on the ebay box Xman, hangs then gives error 7 which i know is HDD timeout.
I think ive got a little 80gig kickin around. Going to check drive, adaptor, ata ribbon cable etc to rule out anything pointing
in the hd direction. Slayers disc doesnt boot, just hangs then goes to error 7. Ive swapped the dvd drive to a reliable working one
incase slayers wont read. Also tried copying on different discs -r brands at x2 speed. Its keeping me busy on a cold day anyway!

[RunsilenT]

Update: I found my Sata to IDE adaptor was faulty. Doh!
Probably due to the switching around and general abuse ive given it.
Another lesson learn`t and thanks for all the help