OK, now for the tricky part. You need to pull apart all the sub assemblies that make up a retail T.V.. This varies enormously between the brands, models and age of the T.V.. This particular T.V. is going to be an arse as nothing is small but it is good quality, especially the sound. May as well start with the riskiest part of the job, the HT lead to tube connection. It will look exactly like this, maybe smaller, maybe bigger but always like this on a CRT T.V.. Care must be taken not to put your hand or body to close to it or it "WILL" zap you. The tube un-powered will hold a change indefinitely and even if you discharge it, it will recharge. It's this rubber thing with the thick wire coming out that looks like a suction cap you need to be careful of-
You'll find it on the top or bottom side of the tube, usually the top. It will have a thick lead like a car ignition lead leading to it from the chassis board, ( board with all electronic parts on it under the tube). Now to get this sucker out. Grab a wooden ruler, plastic ruler or even a plastic egg flip as I used. Basically anything that allows you to have your hand about 30mm or 1 foot away from the rubber or actually the metal clips that hold this part into the tube. Slip the thin end of what piece of plastic or wood tool you have and slip it under a side of the rubber and put it under till you feel it hit the clip. It is fairly robust and your not likely to break it. Now lift the tool so the rubber cap lifts off the tube on the side your lifting and grab the EDGE of the rubber cap with your other hand's fingers and peel it up and you'll see the clip. While holding back the side of the rubber, get your tool and push the clip in further and that side of the clip will release. Now do the same on the other side of the cap to release that side of the clip and the whole cap should come off in your fingers-
The lead is completely harmless and you can handle it as you wish, just don't go to close to the now exposed 5-10mm hole in the tube as it will bite you. This BITE is just like a spark plug bite.
Next, on the back of the tube is called the "neck" for obvious reasons and it will have a board on it. The "neck board". Grab both sides of it and pull it straight off the back of the tube, it's on pins and is "keywayed", so it can only go back on one way, the correct way.
when you need to put it back on. This is the neck board.-
Now start to pull the cables or harness from either the Chassis or tube. They will be on connectors. No matter how good you believe you are. LABEL them with numbers attached to the leads and draw a rough sketch of there location on a piece of paper doing one lead at a time as they are disconnected. If the lead goes from one part on a connector to another part on a connector, leave one end connected, you don't want to strip it, just pull it apart enough to allow you to work on it. This is like what you should have once you have the leads labelled and the sketch of there locations-
This is the chassis with it's wires disconnected and labelled-
OK, so now you should have all the sub-assemblies apart, (neck board doesn't disconnect from the chassis by the way)
Now this is how the tube bolts, screws, what ever into the cab-
Measure these locations on the tube and make sure it WILL suit those of the cab. If they don't go through the rings on the tube you'll need to move them on the cab to suit or it simply won't fit. This tube is from a 68cm or 26" T.V. and the cab is a 26" so it will fit.
Right in goes the tube, (being real careful not to go to close to the hole in the tube), and while holding the face so it doesn't flip out, on go the nuts and washers. This cab has bolts sticking out for the tube to go onto. Nuts are all on so now the tube is in. You can see the 4 bolts and nuts that location the tube in the cab in this picture. Chassis goes in tomorrow.
Good thing it was wired on a flexible cable. It's the board in the top left corner.-
