Clock cap

AwesomeNurd · Post by **AwesomeNurd** » Sat Nov 23, 2013 3:17 am

Hi fellas,
I was watching a random video on YouTube, the guy recommends removing the Xbox clock capacitor before it starts leaking, is this necessary?
I've never removed any, what do you guys think?

Cheers

dan.h · Post by **dan.h** » Sat Nov 23, 2013 9:09 am

I do with mine, I saw some pics on Xbox scene where the cap had leaked and corroded some traces on the motherboard and it seems to be the recommended thing. I'm to lazy to desolder, I just squeeze some thin snips underneath and cut the legs off!

AwesomeNurd · Post by **AwesomeNurd** » Sat Nov 23, 2013 3:12 pm

Thanks dan.h
I will desolder them

coacharnold · Post by **coacharnold** » Sat Nov 23, 2013 6:19 pm

This sounds like a concern..... can you guys post a picture of where it is ??

Does the board need to be jumpered after the cap is gone.

Tim

asbo · Post by **asbo** » Sat Nov 23, 2013 7:34 pm

coacharnold wrote: Does the board need to be jumpered after the cap is gone.

Nope.

Also I'd like to point out I've only removed it from my micro xbox, all the others still have it in and their traces are ok. So its a good idea to remove it but I wouldn't worry about it if you can't.

seriouslycgi · Post by **seriouslycgi** » Sat Nov 23, 2013 9:40 pm

mine all leaked

its leaky on the v1.0 -1.4

they replaced it with a better on on the 1.5-1.6 i have 2 1.6 and they didnt leak yet

i have a 1.0 a 1.1 and 2 1.3/4 they all leaked and looked like oil on the mobo so i removed them and cleaned the board with water and an old toothbrush, then put it in the hot water cupboard for 2 days to dry. this is at your own risk though i can get xbox0's for $2 so i didnt mind if they failed.

asbo · Post by **asbo** » Sun Nov 24, 2013 11:58 am

I should probably clarify since I must have been half asleep when I wrote that, although I still am

All the ones I've come across have either not leaked or leaked a long time ago. The electrolyte tends to be mixed with a thick layer of dust and dried out, I assume when its like its done all the corroding its going to do.
If its still sticky then I clean it off with some alcohol(isopropanol). Also it depends what mood I'm in

I think cleaning the electrolyte off is more important than removing the capacitor as I think they've usually leaked all they're going to.

I could be completely wrong about all that

xboxprince · Post by **xboxprince** » Sun May 04, 2014 11:14 pm

Why does the cap leak any way?

Post by **Xphazer** » Sun May 04, 2014 11:21 pm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

blighty · Post by **blighty** » Wed May 07, 2014 6:26 am

Whilst we are on this subject has anyone ever come across the battery replacement mod for the clock cap? I recall reading about it somewhere once some time ago most likely on the dead xbox-scene forums. Always wanted to add a battery so my clocks stay running.

psyko_chewbacca · Post by **psyko_chewbacca** » Wed May 07, 2014 1:32 pm

blighty wrote:Whilst we are on this subject has anyone ever come across the battery replacement mod for the clock cap? I recall reading about it somewhere once some time ago most likely on the dead xbox-scene forums. Always wanted to add a battery so my clocks stay running.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-x-Ni-MH-80mAh ... 5408a4331d

Observe proper polarity as you would with a capacitor.

blighty · Post by **blighty** » Wed May 07, 2014 4:53 pm

Sweet! I'll give that a go

Post by **Xphazer** » Wed May 07, 2014 7:57 pm

Not only a battery is required! You need a diode, so the battery doesn't get power in while the Xbox is on.
Connecting the battery directly could lead to hazards.

http://circuit-board.de/forum/index.php ... terie-Mod/

Post by **Dom DXecutioner** » Wed May 07, 2014 9:12 pm

Pardon my ignorance; if the battery is rechargeable, wouldn't this benefit to allow power into the battery?

If feasible, would we have to know the electrical current flow and if too much add a resistor to limit such flow?

Again, I speak out of pure ignorance since I know nothing about the subject but the concept sounds interesting.

psyko_chewbacca · Post by **psyko_chewbacca** » Wed May 07, 2014 9:30 pm

Xphazer wrote:Not only a battery is required! You need a diode, so the battery doesn't get power in while the Xbox is on.
Connecting the battery directly could lead to hazards.

http://circuit-board.de/forum/index.php ... terie-Mod/

This is true only of you're using a standard "non-rechargeable" battery like the CR2032 used in the tutorial you linked.
Of course, trying to recharge an Alkaline battery would lead to big trouble.

The beauty of a NiMH battery is that a current-limited input voltage will suffice to recharge it providing such input voltage is of same value as the battery's specs.

In the case of the Xbox, the current is already limited since there used to be a super CAP installed there. If I remember correctly, voltage on this line is a little over 2.4Vbut NiMH cells are tolerant enough (compared to Lithium-based batteries which would likely explode!).

Post by **xman** » Wed May 07, 2014 11:09 pm

professor_jonny · Post by **professor_jonny** » Thu May 08, 2014 8:19 am

Xphazer wrote:Not only a battery is required! You need a diode, so the battery doesn't get power in while the Xbox is on.
Connecting the battery directly could lead to hazards.

It also provides a volt drop of the 3v cell to around 2.4 v as a diode has a bias voltage of around .6 volts

Post by **xman** » Wed Jun 18, 2014 2:06 pm

I've just found a supplier of these button cell batteries however these ones are rechargeable. They are made for time clocks, PC mother boards etc and can handle higher voltages that they actually need to recharge correctly.

Sychose · Post by **Sychose** » Fri Jun 20, 2014 10:02 pm

I would like to stick one of these batteries to my board

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